Activity Reviews in Monaco — 13 of Our Favourites

Starting at Riquier train station, turn left under the railway bridge onto Boulevard de l’Armée des Alpes. Continue for about 4 blocks then turn right at the next junction after the Total garage, it’ll be signposted for “Grande Corniche” and Observatoire de Nice”.

From this point you leave the traffic of Nice behind and start climbing up above the city; it’s a steady climb for about another 13km with the highest point being 535m.

The views as you climb are just fantastic; the first few kilometres see Nice dropping away over your left shoulder until it’s like a toy town beside the sea, then you head into a forested area where now and then you get glimpses through the trees into the Vallée du Paillon and the hills beyond. Once you’ve passed the Observatoire the road opens out and every twist and turn reveals stunning scenery of the undulating coastline meeting the deepest blue sea. This ride will definitely take longer than scheduled if you stop to take as many photos as we did.

Once you reach the Col d’Eze you can congratulate yourself on having done the hardest part at our favourite lunch stop, L’Auberge de la Croix du Pape, where you can dine like a king for under 20€! The food here is excellent, the terrace is beautiful and we’ve always had a very warm welcome from the owners; they offer a lunchtime menu of 3 courses for 19,90€ or 2 courses for 14,50€ (except Sundays) - 2 courses is plenty if you want any hope of getting back on the bike.

Our next stop is La Turbie, an ancient town with a history that can be traced back as far as the Romans. The enormous tower that you’ll see long before you reach the town is the Trophée des Alpes, or the Trophy of Augustus, a Roman relic from 6BC. Just after you pass the entrance to the old part of La Turbie there is a small turnoff that leads to a viewing point - from here you can see the port of Monaco in all its glory.

From La Turbie it is blessedly all downhill, the roads are in pretty good condition and there are few junctions, so you can pick up some speed as you whizz round the smooth mountain bends. At around the 25km mark you’ll see a turnoff to the left where you can opt to take a small detour to the medieval village of Roquebrune Cap Martin - if you look up you’ll see the ancient chateau dominating the hillside with the village nestled beneath.

Shortly after the turnoff you’ll come to a junction and a set of traffic lights, turn left in the direction of Menton and continue along Avenue de Verdun until you come to a roundabout by an Esso garage. Turn right here and follow signs for “Les Plages” until you arrive at the seafront of Cap Martin, where you’ll turn left and see the promenade stretching out in front of you all the way to Menton. There is plenty to see in Menton and loads of lovely places to stop for a drink, so consider taking a bike chain in case you want to explore a bit.

After such a delicious lunch and a long lazy descent down to the beach it would be torture to kick the legs back into gear at this point, which is why we’re kindly offering you two easier returns options. You’re welcome.

If you want to take the easiest possible route then simply about-face and head back along the coast, following signs for Nice. You’ll enjoy a whistle-stop tour of all the beach resorts along the way and it is mostly pretty flat. There will be heavier traffic though and lots more junctions to slow you down, so this is definitely the more leisurely option.

If you still have a bit of climb left in your legs then head back via Cap Martin and take the D6007 after the peninsula, this is known as the Moyenne Corniche and is the road that runs in between the Grande Corniche and the coast road. It’ll have more traffic than the Grande Corniche but not so much as down at the coast. There’s still a fair old climb involved but once you’re past Eze Village it’s plain sailing all the way back to Nice via the port.

We love this ride for many reasons and we’re not alone, you’ll see many fellow cyclists out on the corniches at all times of the year.

• DISTANCE: 60KM
• TOTAL ELEVATION: 1597M

• Map: https://maps.google.com/maps?q=http:%2F%2Fwww.mapmyfitness.com%2Froutes%2Fkml%2F506863242%2F

The Col de la Madone is one of the most famous climbs in the Alpes-Maritimes, used as a benchmark for many Tour de France athletes as to how they would perform on the hardest stages of the tour. I’m not sure if this is supposed to motivate or scare you but I can confirm that you don’t need to be a world class cyclist to reach the famous summit!

There are a number of starting points but we set off from the seafront at Menton, turning north-west at the outdoor swimming pool and up Route de Gorbio. Start off by following signs to Gorbio through the town centre and then pick up signs for Sainte-Agnes as soon as you see them. Once you’re on the road to Sainte-Agnes you’ll see green and while cycling signs for the Col de la Madone.

There is no easy warm-up on this ride, you start climbing straight away and you don’t stop until you reach the col. No flat or downhill bits to catch your breath, just up and up and up. Fortunately the scenery is stunning and the road surface is exceptionally good; there is also very little traffic other than fellow cyclists.

As the road winds round the mountains you get alternating views of the sea dropping away beneath you and the medieval village of Sainte-Agnes perched on a mountainside above you. This quirky little place holds the title of “highest coastal village in Europe” - it may be a few kms inland but it qualifies due to the fact that you can still see the sea from its elevated position at almost 800m.

On reaching Sainte-Agnes take a hard left and continue up in the direction of Peille. I was under the impression that we were nearly there by this point and started to congratulate myself on not finding it as hard as I expected. I breezed along the next stretch thinking that it was actually a bit of a cruise and we would probably see the col around the next bend.

However, this is the part when you have to remind yourself that there’s probably a reason why even Lance Armstrong says it’s quite hard. It suddenly gets really steep. And carries on being really steep. For quite a long time.

Another thing to mention about this route is that there is barely any shade the whole way, and it can get a bit sunny in the South of France. By this point I was wilting under the strong rays of the sun and the intense heat that was coming up off the asphalt and being radiated off the white limestone rocks that tower over one side of the road. Apparently the view from up here is absolutely marvellous but I couldn’t see an awful lot through my veil of sweat and tears.

Finally, we rounded the final bend and made it up to the col; a glorious wide open plateau with sweet cool breezes and majestic views of the mountain ranges disappearing into the distance. After a breather and a few photos we got back on our bikes and started the descent to Peille, never have I been so happy to be going downhill.

The descent to Peille is a delight, not only because it is not an ascent (unless you’re coming from the other direction obviously) but because of the fantastic views and colourful flora that line the road. This side of the col is far less steep than the other, making the ride down a pleasant freewheeling cruise that passes a number of small pretty villages. If you’re planning to stop en route then I recommend Peille, a labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets with lots of historic architecture and a friendly atmosphere.

After Peille you continue along the D21 past Cantaron and Drap, both nice towns if you want somewhere to stop for a quick break. Once you get past Drap you’ll notice the traffic becoming heavier and this culminates in the chaos that is La Trinité, getting busier and busier as you approach Nice. This route will bring you on to the Avenue Joseph Raybaud, from where you can choose whether to head back to where you started at Riquier or continue south to the seafront; there are a couple of intersections where you may find it safer to dismount and use the pedestrian crossings.

Distance: 45km
Elevation gain: 1600m
Highest point: 937m

The route starts and finishes in the medieval village of Gorbio, just above Menton; twisting, turning and scrambling through the backcountry hiking trails. We drove up one fine October morning in time to collect our race numbers and get to the start line - due to limited parking we had to leave the car some distance away but we needn’t have worried about being late, this is one of the most chilled races I’ve ever taken part in…

With a start time of 7:30am we dashed to the centre of the village just in the nick of time, only to find everyone milling around sipping coffee and having a natter. With only 200 runners it’s a small race and I got the impression that most people here knew each other. While everyone was catching up on the latest gossip, one of the organisers got on a microphone of dubious sound quality and rambled some incomprehensible but possibly quite important details about the course. Then, without any whistle or starting pistol, everyone started to amble en masse along the street and up the hill. Definitely the most low-key race start I’ve ever experienced.

The first 5km is a fairly monotonous trudge up an asphalt road, but the views as you come around the side of the mountain are spectacular - especially so early in the morning when the sun is rising over the bay of Menton.

A short scramble through a forest brings you to a rough firetrack, where you can freewheel down to a sharp turn that leads to a very rocky and overgrown trail. Being a back-of-the-pack runner has pros and cons - on the one hand the front runners will have trodden the trail down so much that most obstacles are no longer an issue, on the other hand the ground can be so well trodden that it is slick with the footprints of hundreds of muddy feet. This section was definitely more of the latter; I nearly wiped out a few times as I attempted to bound over and around the smooth slabs of slippery rock. As it happens, I did wipe out quite spectacularly but that was on a deceptively flat piece of ground where I was paying more attention to the view than to my feet…

The first aid station is about 12km in and there’s a cheeky little ascent to scramble up before you can pounce on the chocolate biscuits. However, you can barely go a whole kilometre without being encouraged by one of the very friendly race wardens - mostly locals of a certain vintage who are keen to volunteer, probably trail runners or club members themselves. They also seem to have a penchant for jungle warfare, as I didn’t see most of them until they popped out of the undergrowth at the last minute. When I fell I had barely hit the floor before a sprightly grey-haired lady appeared out of nowhere to dust me down before melting back into the shadows of the forest.

There is a fair amount of rocky firetrack and concreted or asphalt roads in this race, so purist trail runners might find it a bit frustrating. However, the forested sections are beautifully springy, with enough tree roots and undergrowth to keep the legs pumping.

There are not one but three killer climbs in this event - don’t forget that the course might start and finish at the same place but it has almost 3000m of ascent, so they have to sneak it in somewhere. The final battle is the seemingly never-ending climb up to the Col de la Madone; a rocky scramble so steep that I had to engage four wheel drive and use hands as well as feet to get to the top. Once you’ve been ticked off at the final checkpoint you might be forgiven for thinking that you’re nearly home and dry - it’s only 6km downhill after all… alas it is the kind of downhill that can end a race early. After picking my way down amongst the scree, loose rocks and sharp stones I finally made it to the finish line. Bruised, battered, an hour later than expected, but still smiling - what a day!

There was no medal at the finish line, just a man selling jars of homemade jam, which was nice. I love the quirky vibe of this race and the friendly relaxed attitude of everyone involved - the volunteers in particular are just fantastic. It’s also remarkably cheap to enter; 22€ for race entry, t-shirt and dinner afterwards - what a bargain.

The AS Trail de Gorbio is a one point qualifier for the Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc, so you know it’s going to be tough but just keep one eye on the incredible rugged scenery for all the inspiration you need to get you through. Either that, or visualise the massive glass of chilled rosé you’re going to enjoy later…

The train line actually runs all the way to Cuneo in Italy, but most sightseers only go as far as the medieval village of Tende or to Breil-Sur-Roya in the Vallée des Merveilles. To go all the way to Cuneo takes about three hours, with Tende being just two hours from the beginning of the line in Nice. Some of the services do not go all the way to the end of the line, so be careful when planning your journey or you may find yourself stuck somewhere in the middle.

Merveilles means “marvels” and it’s hard to know whether they named the area for the stunning scenery, the beautiful old medieval villages or the archaeological findings going back 5,000 years. The railway carriages are painted with designs inspired by the prehistoric rock carvings that have been discovered in the region.

The train line follows the Peillon river into the Roya valley, crossing back and forth across the Alps between the borders of France and Italy. An impressive system of viaducts and tunnels help it cross rivers, span gorges and pass through mountains as it rises from sea level to 1,000m. Some of the tunnels are as much as 6km long but you still get to see enough wonderful scenery to make the journey interesting.

Building of the train line began in 1883 and it was officially opened in 1928; parts of it were destroyed during WWII but it was rebuilt and restored to its entirety by 1979. It's hoped that the train line will gain UNESCO World Heritage status.

The towns and villages along the route to Tende are well worth visiting for hiking, bike riding, and sightseeing. You can take bicycles on the train at no extra cost and designated carriages have bike racks. The stations from Nice to Tende are:

• Nice Ville
• Nice St. Roche
• La Trinité
• Drap - Cantaron
• Peillon Ste Thecle
• Peille
• L'Escarène
• Sospel
• Breil-sur-Roya
• Fontan - Saorge
• St Dalmas-de-Tende
• La Brigue
• Tende

The Train des Merveilles runs all year round, with on-board commentary in French and English every day from June to September and at weekends in May and October.

Leaving Plage Marquet from its most westerly point, head to the car park nearest the Cercle Nautique. As you continue round the headland you’ll come to a signpost marked “Sentier Littoral” and indicating places such as Cap Rognoso and Plage Mala.

As you leave the beach behind you’ll find yourself on a well-kept even footpath that hugs the coastline, high walls with plants creeping up them to your right and waves crashing against rocks on your left.

After about an hour you’ll go slightly inland behind a few very ritzy villas before heading left down a staircase and back onto the seafront at La Pinede, a rugged rocky headland with dramatic scenery. You can actually swim here in the little coves in between the rocks and there are either ladders or steps in some places leading down to the water - but be careful of the conditions as it can be very choppy.

There is a good restaurant here by the same name with a fabulous terrace overlooking the sea. It’s not cheap, a simple moules frites will set you back 24€, but the fish is as fresh as it gets and the views are magnificent.

If you prefer to bring a picnic there is a great shaded area with tables and benches, free to use and very picturesque. Toilets are nearby too.

You can improve your local knowledge on this walk, as there are lots of handy little information boards about flora, fauna and geology. For example, did you know that the rocks along the waterfront are formed by chunks of the cliffs that fell during a mudslide way back in the Jurassic period and contain loads of fossils…? No? Neither did we until recently.

This section of the Sentier is a very smooth well-maintained path that could easily be done with little ones and maybe even with a pushchair (too narrow in sections for a pram though). Splendid villas line the way, including The Rock which was a favourite hideaway of the famously-reclusive actress Greta Garbo.

Continue west and when the path meets a locked gate follow the blue hiking signs up the staircase and on to the road above. Keep a keen eye out for the slightly overgrown path after 100m or so on the left that drops down to another staircase leading to Plage Mala. This is one of the Cote d’Azur’s best kept secrets and I’m loathe to share it… Small and secluded with gentle waters and two excellent restaurants, Plage Mala is a little haven tucked away beneath the Pissarelles cliffs.

After a dip and maybe a bite to eat at Plage Mala, there is the small matter of 100-or-so steps to climb to get back up to the main road where you can pick up the 100 bus back to Nice from Edmond’s.

You can do the Sentier Littoral in its entirety in about an hour and a half, or you can do it in sections. Cap d’Ail train station is just a couple of minutes walk from La Pinede, so you could use that as your start or end point and just do the Plage Mala or Plage Marquet section.

We recommend you do both at some point though, as it is a truly beautiful walk from beginning to end!

• Distance: 3.6km
• Time: 1.5 hours, very leisurely pace

Starting from Eze-Sur-Mer train station, cross over the road and turn right along Avenue de la Liberté, carry on for about 150m until you see a small road heading up to the left - the signpost for Chemin de Nietzsche can be hidden amongst overgrown flowers but this is where you head up towards Eze Village.

A steep one hour climb through pine forests will bring you out near the viewpoint at Eze Village where you’ll be greeted by a wonderful vista of sparkling blue sea and landscaped gardens. The village of Eze is a medieval maze of tiny streets and courtyards that spiral their way up and around a pinnacle, culminating in a ruined fort and an exotic cactus garden at its summit. It is well worth a visit, even if you only go for a quick peek before starting the next section of the hike.

To pick up the next part of the trail walk down to the car park and head for the far end, follow the pavement beside the viaduct and look out for the hiking sign pointing right just before the mouth of the tunnel.

Another sharp ascent brings you high above the busy main road and gives you a new perspective on Eze, you can really see its impressive position as a look-out from here as it towers over the coastline. The past twists away from the village and heads into the mountains; hiking poles are a welcome accessory to help pick your way over the rough and rocky terrain. Once the path reaches a certain height it flattens out and you start to see the mountains of the Vallon de l'Ibac stretching into the distance. Look back towards the coast and you’ll see the peninsulas of Saint Jean Cap Ferrat and Villefranche-Sur-Mer jutting out into the sea.

The terrain becomes more of a scrub land where tropical Mediterranean plants jostle for space alongside more familiar varieties such as cowslip and lavender; it’s unusual not see dozens of colourful butterflies flitting about up here. You’ll know when you reach the top as there’s a nice signpost announcing that you’ve conquered the summit at the grand altitude of 570m -  which feels very satisfying when you can look down and see the sea so far beneath you.

The descent is a gentle twisting path down towards the Vallon de l’Ibac, skirting past the Col d’Eze, ignore the signs for the Aire de Parapente and continue straight on to the Sentier de Caricart. The final stretch path takes you back round towards Eze-Sur-Mer along the towering cliffs, where you’ll be rewarded with stunning views as more and more of the coastline reveals itself. The path meets a busy road called the Moyenne Corniche, which you can follow back to Eze Village if you like, although it’s much nicer to cross over and take the Sentier de Savaric immediately opposite; a steep descent through a leafy residential area down to Eze-Sur-Mer.

• Distance: 7KM
• Time: 03:00
• Google Maps: https://maps.google.com/maps?q=http:%2F%2Fwww.mapmyfitness.com%2Froutes%2Fkml%2F501495144%2F

The Route du Mimosa is a 130km driving route created to celebrate this extraordinary phenomenon, linking eight villages and towns that are famous for their stunning mimosa displays and festivals.

Any visiting Australian will be heard to ask with puzzlement about the mimosa flower. ‘Why’s there so much wattle? How did it get here?’ While the French are often quick to claim the fluffy, soft baubles of yellow flowers as their own, the mimosa tree is in fact the famous wattle tree - Australia’s national flower- imported to France in the 1800’s by visiting British, who thought it would grow well in the sunny climate. And they were right. By the time the Belle Époque was in full swing and the Riviera was a wintertime resort of glittering parties and grand hotels, the Mimosa tree had transformed the landscape, turning the valleys and forests a burnished gold and becoming the local symbol that winter’s grip was broken.

Which, of course, is a timely reminder that the South of France is a wonderful place to be in the late winter, particularly if you feel like a driving holiday through glorious scenery, stopping at local festivals and quaint villages along the way.

The sweet-smelling mimosa flower blooms from late January to early March and the Route du Mimosa is best driven in February, which is when the majority of mimosa parades and village festivals take place. This is the most pleasant time of year to be driving along the Riviera, avoiding the clogged roads and heavy heat of midsummer allowing you to enjoy the crisp air, snow on the Alps and the Mediterranean shining in the winter sunshine.

To be honest, you could do this trip at any time of year as it takes in some very pretty towns and countryside, from the foothills of the Alps down to the long white sandy beaches of Saint Raphael on the Gulf of Saint Tropez.